dye transfer: one film process

Under the useless information heading comes this secret from the past. Ektapan film could be used as the (almost) only film needed to make dye transfer (imbibition) prints. It could be used to make masks, separations, and even the matrix itself; that last is the big secret.

Full disclosure: it couldn’t do all those things better than the specialized films used for masks, seps, and mats; it could serve well, well enough to be a simple solution for workshops and weekend workers to acquire the foundations of making dye transfer prints. In school, I would take students through in several circuits of the process, each pass around we would add more control, increasing the understanding of choices to make — how the image was made.

Ektapan could also be used as a collotype film. It was a nice emulsion; not just for studio photographers shooting color and B&W negatives of the same thing.

Notice the DK-50, HC-110, & T-Max RS lines.

you can also see the similarity of DK50 & HC110. dilution makes them the same!

I used the Dilution B for Seps; Dilution F for masks.

Exposing and developing (tanning) Ektapan as a mat wasn’t the same as Kodak Matrix film. Two reasons, Ektapan is panchromatic, so required total darkness for working. Kodak Tanning Developer didn’t work well enough; contrast was too low, or else way to high. So we relied upon tanning bleach method.

Details won’t help you now. I offer this to you as a point of reference; as something you can consider as an alternative way of recovering a process. Try what is at hand. Don’t wait for the perfect something from someone else.

More, another time, about origin stories. Getting beyond the now state.

Dye Film :note

Will a sheet of fixed out arista litho film hold dye? A question from a few days back that I have decided to post more about.

Two sheets of film; both dyed in cyan dye. The upper one with the arch of color is Kodak matrix film partially washed off. That’s what the arch is: no emulsion. The cyan is fogged, age mottled emulsion after being dyed.

The lower, empty, blank, unstained square of film is Arista Litho that has been stained with the same cyan dye as the matrix film — stained for over 8 minutes — that stain drained off with less than 40 seconds in rinse. It didn’t base stain — there wouldn’t be highlight carry over.

This isn’t a stripped emulsion, we aren’t at film base.

What does this demonstrate?

Try it. No matter who you hear an answer from, try the experiment in your studio with your equipment. Set your own standards; have your own goals.

Why did I do this? Because I wanted to know; to confirm my memory of making matrix films from true raw, so ever many years ago. Dye won’t stick if an emulsion won’t, however, a dye sticks to ‘soft’ gelatin — gelatin of a type. It will stick to many types of colloids — collodion, gelatin, albumin, etc. It isn’t easy to get all things arranged: emulsion, dye, receiver; all compatible, durable, useable to your purpose.

Get your own hands dirty.

Dyers Fingers: Cyan Thumb